The riving knife pressed the strips tight to the fence behind the blade, so I got very smooth cuts, without any of the chatter marks you usually get with thin strips. Then, starting with a scrap between the knife and the fence to hold the knife vertical, I made my cuts, pushing the first stick through with a second, and so on. That oversize - very tall - riving knife you end up with also makes a handy hold-in for very narrow strips: I loosely hooked a bungie to one of the now-unused pivot holes for the guard, so that the knife was pulled slightly towards the fence. FENCE SYSTEM Before using the saw or making other adjustments, install and align the fence included. I haven't gotten around to taking apart my 90s-era Unisaw guard, but at least I didn't throw it away. Also for: Unisaw 36-l552, Unisaw 36-l352, Unisaw 36-l552lvc, Unisaw n061865. I think it was Tage Frid who did the same thing with his Unisaw guard, also adding a wood guard atop it that was sized and shaped much like a throat-plate insert. I did that with my old, early-70s 9" Contractor's Saw - a great, cast-iron tool. You can the the standard guard apart, throwing away the plastic guard and anti-kickback parts, saving only the riving portion.
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